A Taste of Patna That Never Fades: Bihar's 'Dudhiya Maldah' Mango Set for GI Tag; What Makes This Mango So Special But Will It Go Extinct?
For generations, the 'Dudhiya Maldah' mango of Digha has stood as one of Patna's most cherished symbols of pride. Renowned for its sweetness, exquisite aroma, and soft pulp, this mango variety once flourished in orchards nestled along the banks of the River Ganges. Today, only a few of its old trees remain, but efforts are now underway to bring this rare variety back into the spotlight.
This celebrated mango is now on the verge of receiving a 'Geographical Indication' (GI) tag—a distinction that could secure its recognition on both national and international stages, while simultaneously aiding in the preservation of a vital piece of Bihar's agricultural heritage.
The Government of Bihar, along with a team of scientists from the Bihar Agricultural University, has been working for the past two years to save this mango variety from total extinction. Currently, the few remaining old trees can still be spotted at locations across Patna, such as the Bihar Vidyapeeth, St. Xavier's College, and the Kurji Family Hospital.
What Sets 'Dudhiya Maldah' Apart?
Agricultural experts attribute the unique flavor of the 'Dudhiya Maldah' mango to the specific soil and climatic conditions of the Patna region. Its orchards originally thrived in proximity to the River Ganges and in areas influenced by tributaries such as the Son, Gandak, and Punpun. The minerals deposited by these rivers enriched the soil, thereby endowing the mango with its distinctive characteristics.
Dr. Shivnath Das, Director of the Agricultural Research Institute in Mithilapur, explains that the mango derives its name from the milky sheen visible on its skin. If the surface is lightly scraped, a milky substance becomes visible on one's finger; locals consider this to be the most definitive hallmark of this mango's authenticity.
A higher pulp content and a remarkably thin stone
According to scientists, compared to many other varieties, this mango possesses a higher pulp content and a remarkably thin stone. Its aroma and sweetness are also considered unparalleled. Laboratory tests have revealed that the sugar level in this mango is balanced; this implies that even patients with diabetes can consume this mango in limited quantities, provided they do so after consulting their doctors.
Owing to its exceptional taste, many affectionately refer to it as the 'King of Malda Mangoes.'
The Process of Securing a GI Tag is Now in Its Final Stages
The process of securing a Geographical Indication (GI) tag for the 'Dudhiya Malda' mango is now nearing completion. Researchers have gathered historical evidence from old records preserved at the Bihar Archives, the Khuda Bakhsh Library, the Bihar Legislative Assembly Library, and other institutions.
Some of these records date back over a century and confirm that the 'Dudhiya Malda' has long been associated with Bihar—specifically the Digha region of Patna.
Officials state that approximately 95 percent of the GI registration work has been completed, and approval is expected within the coming months. The Government of Bihar has already endorsed this proposal, while a separate application has also been submitted through the 'Patna Dudhiya Malda Mango Producers' Group.'
Experts believe that the GI tag will help farmers secure better prices and establish a strong market identity for this fruit.
Thousands of Saplings Are Being Prepared
Alongside the efforts to secure the GI tag, scientists are also focusing on the large-scale conservation of this mango variety. Thousands of saplings are being propagated using grafting techniques to ensure that the fruit's original characteristics and genetic purity are preserved.
Dr. Sangeeta Kumari, Chief Scientist (Horticulture), stated that approximately 50,000 grafted saplings are currently being prepared at the institute. Of these, about half have already been made ready.
Saplings are not grown from seeds
She explained that these saplings are not grown from seeds, as doing so could alter the characteristics of the fruit. Instead, experts employ grafting techniques to ensure that the mangoes produced by the new trees possess the exact same taste, aroma, and texture as the original variety.
These saplings are being distributed among farmers to promote large-scale cultivation. Currently, each sapling is available for approximately Rs 115.
A Mango Steeped in Stories and Memories
Like many old traditions, the 'Dudhiya Maldah' mango is accompanied by stories that have been passed down through generations.
A popular local belief holds that Nawab Fida Hussain of Lucknow brought a sapling of this mango variety from what is now Pakistan and planted it in Digha. It is said that milk from the Nawab's cattle was poured around these trees, imparting a unique sweetness to the fruit—a quality that eventually earned it the name "Dudhiya" (milky) Maldah.
There was a time when Digha was filled with vast mango orchards
Elderly residents recall a time when Digha was filled with vast mango orchards. During the summer season, the fragrance of ripe mangoes would permeate the entire locality. Traders from various places would arrive to purchase this fruit, and in many instances, the entire harvest would be sold out even before the mangoes were picked.
Among the admirers of this mango were several renowned personalities. It is said that India's first President, Dr. Rajendra Prasad, and the celebrated writer Rahul Sankrityayan were particularly fond of this variety. Sankrityayan even went so far as to refer to it as the "King of Maldah" in his writings.
Orchards Lost to Urban Expansion
Over the past two to three decades, rapid urbanization in Patna has led to a drastic decline in the number of mango orchards in Digha. The very land that once featured rows of mango trees has now given way to apartment complexes, roads, and residential colonies.
Children used to spend their summer vacations playing in the orchard
Local residents lament that this transformation has wiped out a significant portion of the greenery that once defined the identity of this area. Bhai Dharmendra, the former Mukhiya (head) of Kurji Panchayat, fondly recalls how children used to spend their summer vacations playing in the orchards and eagerly awaited the mango season every year.
Today, only a handful of old trees remain—standing as solitary reminders of that bygone era. Experts assert that preserving these trees is crucial—not only for agriculture but also for the environment. Mango orchards play a vital role in maintaining ecological balance, mitigating heat, and improving air quality.
Far More Than Just a Fruit
For the people of Patna, the 'Dudhiya Maldah' mango is far more than just a seasonal fruit or a delicious delicacy; it stands as a symbol of the city's history, traditions, and its deep-rooted connection with nature.
The ongoing effort to revive the popularity of this mango variety—and to secure a 'GI Tag' for it—is being viewed as an endeavor to preserve a fading cultural heritage. If these efforts prove successful, this initiative will help restore the lost identity of Digha's renowned mango orchards, while also ensuring that future generations can experience the very same sweetness and fragrance that once made the summers of Patna truly unforgettable.