Lucknow's Culinary Tradition at Risk: Will Kebabs Sizzling Over Coal-Fired Grills Become A Thing of Past?

As night descends upon Lucknow, the city comes alive with the rich aromas of kebabs sizzling over coal-fired grills and biryanis simmering slowly over low flames. These mouth-watering scents irresistibly attract food enthusiasts, who find themselves drawn to the bustling streets and famous eateries of this historic city.

Lucknow is renowned for its vibrant culture, rich history, and most importantly, its delectable cuisine. Although the city’s cultural heritage has gradually faded over time, its culinary landscape has continued to flourish, with a variety of kebabs, biryanis, and other dishes that have become synonymous with Lucknow’s identity. However, the much-loved charcoal-grilled kebabs and the city's special yakhni biryani are now facing a serious threat.

The local administration in Lucknow recently issued a directive for all coal-fired restaurants and eateries to switch to gas stoves, as part of an effort to combat the city’s escalating air pollution problem.

Air Pollution Concerns Prompt New Regulations

Air pollution has become a significant issue in Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh. In an effort to control the deteriorating air quality, the local administration commissioned a study by the Energy and Resources Institute, an environmental research organization. The findings were concerning; the study revealed that the air quality in Lucknow had reached hazardous levels.

The report suggested that switching from coal to gas in the city’s restaurants could lead to a substantial reduction in air pollution. Consequently, the Lucknow Municipal Corporation has recently requested that all eateries replace coal-fired stoves and tandoors with gas stoves for cooking.

Fears of Compromised Taste

While these measures aim to improve air quality, restaurant owners and food lovers in Lucknow fear the change will ruin the authentic taste of their beloved dishes, which have been perfected over centuries. 

Owner of a restaurant in Hazratganj, explained that the unique flavor of their kebabs and biryani comes from being cooked over coal. "Coal plays an essential role in giving these dishes their special taste. Many are made in a tandoor, and we're also concerned about air pollution, but different aspects of cooking need to be considered," he said.

Restaurant owners emphasized that the administration should conduct more research before making such a drastic decision. "Such sudden decisions will increase difficulties," they say.

Mixed Reactions from Restaurant Owners

Following the directive from the Lucknow Municipal Corporation, many restaurant owners have started installing gas stoves alongside their traditional coal-fired setups. But many of them lament that kebabs cooked on gas lack the same taste as those grilled on coal. 

"We’ve started using gas, but many customers complain that kebabs cooked on gas don’t taste as good. The flavor of coal-cooked kebabs is different," said the owner of an eatery in city's Aminabad area.

A customer Anam said that dishes like various kebabs, pulao, yakhni biryani, and special breads such as sheermal and paratha are integral to Lucknow’s identity. "Those who have tasted these dishes know that cooking them on gas would destroy their authentic flavor," she added.

Voices from the Community

The potential loss of traditional flavors has sparked concern among locals and food enthusiasts. 

Tasneem Khan, enjoying tandoori kebabs with her family at a local restaurant, shared a similar sentiment. "The real enjoyment comes from coal. The unique taste it imparts can never be replicated on a gas stove", she said. 

Another resident added, "If we wanted food cooked on gas, we could make it at home. The smoky flavor from coal makes the food extra delicious."

Balancing Tradition and Environmental Responsibility

Despite the concerns, Lucknow Municipal Commissioner Indrajit Singh explained the need for this change. "Nearly three thousand restaurants in the city cook their traditional dishes using coal. We have spoken to the owners and raised awareness about how coal burning causes significant air pollution and harms the health of their workers," Singh stated. 

Singh further clarified that the transition to gas is voluntary. "So far, 100 establishments have switched to gas furnaces, and we are not pressuring anyone," he added.

As Lucknow grapples with balancing its rich culinary heritage and pressing environmental concerns, the city finds itself at a crossroads. Will it be able to maintain its unique flavors while adapting to cleaner cooking methods? Only time will tell how this culinary saga unfolds.